Fat-Phobic NinniesWednesday, March 20, 2013
The Wall Street Journal ran a great article last week by Ron Rosenbaum: “Let Them Eat Fat.”
The hysterical crusade against fat has become a veritable witch hunt. With New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg‘s ban on supersize sodas (now temporarily thwarted) and the first lady’s campaign to push leaves and twigs (i.e., salad) on reluctant school children—all in the name of stamping out obesity—it is fat-shaming time in America. Yes, there are countertrends, like the pro-fat TV shows of Paula Deen and Guy Fieri. But in the culture at large, eating that kind of fat has become a class-based badge of shame: redneck food (which I say as someone who likes rednecks and redneck food). It isn’t food for someone who drives a Prius to Pilates class.
…Eating fatty foods has become the culinary version of “Breaking Bad”: a dangerous walk on the wild side for the otherwise timid consumers of tasteless butter substitutes and Lean Cuisine. Soon the fear-of-food crowd will leave us with nothing but watery prison gruel (whole grain, of course) and the nine daily servings of kale, collards, spinach and other pesticide-laced and e-coli-menaced greens and fruits on the agribusiness-promoted “food pyramid.”
Rosenbaum writes about the glory of real food, real (nutritious) fat, and how the government’s war on fat and its manic low-fat paradigm has demonized traditional foods in favor of chemical toxins turned out by the Industrial Food Machine. He protests the condemnation of glorious foods such as lard, duck, goose, heavy cream, marrow bones, and butter, while Big Agra’s Lean Cuisine and plasticized butter substitutes get a thumbs up from the health and (un)wellness dictators.